Category Gunpla top coat

Gunpla top coat

I received an email the other week from someone asking for a little bit of help, or clarification, on what to do when building Gunpla and how to get better results on a finished project.

gunpla top coat

There are a couple ways of doing it and which route I take when working on a kit is determined by whether I am building out of the box or painting. This post is about Out of the Box building. The most recent mail I received asked about painting but I feel it is best to write these posts in this order so there is continuity. This is probably the most fun I have when building.

gunpla top coat

I just get to assemble things. However, there are some things I do during the assembly that I think I should bring to the attention of new people wishing to get into the hobby. The first is tools, of course. I tend to use only a pair of side-cutters and a design knife. Relevant Point 1: Remove the piece from the runner leaving some of the gate remaining, then cut the remaining gate off with the side-cutters or design knife. Relevant Point 2: When test building I try to cut down slightly the connector pegs on each piece at an angle, so that I can always disassemble the kit a little more easily later on regardless of whether I am going to be painting it or not.

An out of the box build can still be fairly detailed. There are things you can do to make just a standard Gundam kit look much better. For instance. A standard Gundam panel line marker or copic marker is all you need for this. You can also use a cotton swab, which I use often because it leaves the marker in the panel line while removing the excess. I also will use different Gundam Marker to add details to the frame and some places on the armor as well as simple weathering.

gunpla top coat

Relevant Point 4: I need to mention that I do the panel lining and details before I move onto…. There are several ways to add markings to your kit. Everyone knows about the stickers that come with Gundam kits.

For an out of the box build the stickers can work providing you are careful when applying them. If you reposition them frequently before putting them in their final place then they will tend to peel later and a top-coat is a necessity. I tend to not bother with the included stickers but I do use the dry transfers and always try to get my hands on some water slide decals, especially the Bandai Gundam Decals.

There are also some great after market decals out there.Have you ever thought about building a Gundam model or bought one only to find it sitting on your shelf?

In this article we lay out each step and give helpful tips along the way to make your model building experience a lot of fun! Before you start building Gunpla, the first thing to do is prepare a suitable workspace like the one below. The next thing to do is to become more familiar with your kit by taking out the runners where the parts are and taking a look at the instruction booklet. On the first few pages of the instruction booklet you will find a visual list of the runners and their respective parts with corresponding letter designation.

You can then arrange the runners in alphabetical order. A good tip is to lay them inside the box so that when you need a runner that contains a specific part, it will be easier to access it. Here are translations of some of the most common symbols that can be found in your Gunpla instruction booklet:. These are one of the best side cutters for Gunpla, it cuts plastic like butter, great for cleaning out nib marks because stress on the plastic piece is reduced die to the high quality design and sharpness of the side cutters.

This is for further cleaning of nib marks. Be careful when using this tool because the blade is really sharp! These are used for sanding the parts after nib removal for an extra smooth finish.

You can make your own with just some Popsicle sticks and sandpaper that have been cut to size. You can see in the image that the grit size has also been written on the stick for easy reference.

Parts to be cut are indicated on the instruction booklet that is denoted by a letter of the runner and the number of the part. Assembling them is pretty straightforward most of the time and can be easily understood based from the clear diagrams.

In cutting the parts, do not cut right on the edge of the part. Cut away from the edge, leaving a few millimetres of plastic on the part, and then begin to remove the excess plastic little by little.

This will avoid the creation of white stress marks that can be left when you cut as close to the piece as possible. First use a low grit number to even out the surface like grit sandpaper.

Then increase the grit number to smoothen the surface. Do this for all of the parts to have a nice clean look on your built Gunpla.

Goodbye pesky nib marks! Gundam markers come in different colors like grey and brown, though black is the standby color for most models. This is used to clean excess ink from the part especially if you want your piece to look spotless. As you can see in this example, the line is a bit thick and there is a slight excess of ink around the bottom of the piece.

You can easily clean that by rubbing the eraser perpendicular to the panel lines. After blowing off the eraser dust, viola! Just be sure to have a rubber eraser prepared for cleaning. Take your skills to the next level with our detailed Gunpla Panel Lining Guide! They are not that hard to apply as long as you use the proper methods in applying decal stickers.

And as a side note, they do provide some extra decal stickers so not everything in the sheet will be used if you follow the decal instructions in the instruction booklet.

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Application of decal stickers guide can be usually found near the end of the instructions booklet or at the back.

You can use tweezers or a hobby knife in lifting up the sticker from the sheet, but in using a blade be careful not to tear the sticker. I prefer using a hobby knife because it is easier to control and easier to lay down the decal sticker on the model surface. You can also use a toothpick for laying the decal sticker in place and pushing out the air bubbles under clear decals to obtain a clean look.

Top coating is the last step in this basic Gunpla building process. There are two main finishes of Topcoat, which are gloss and matte.Even my ten-year-old self knew this ever since I built my first kit. The sheer gap between the that SD Gundam kit I snapped together and the photos printed on the side of the box was disheartening, to say the least. Clearly Bandai wants to open up the hobby to a wider audience who might not have access to the time and resources required to fully paint a model kit.

Most newcomers to the hobby know about the importance of panel lining to gundam models, but I find that too many are defaulting to the official gundam panel line marker, as did I when I first started to detail my models.

I immediately noticed that the tip of these markers is really thick — not only are the lines overly conspicuous on the corner edges, but the tip is too thick to reach into the smaller grooves. Personally, I find the Copic Modeller 0. The super-fine tip is able to reach any crevice it needs to. For this build I used only the black version of the Copic Modeller, but only because I misplaced warm grey coloured marker.

After panel lining and applying the decals, the last step is applying a layer of top coat. For the Hi-Nu, I separated its body parts head, torso, arms, lower body, funnels, fuel tank, and weaponslaid them out on a flat surface, and sprayed on some Mr.

Hobby flat Top Coat. When dry, I flipped the parts over and sprayed again. Aside from Mr. A gundam model is like a vessel — the more the builder pours himself into the building process, the more personal value that finished model will have.

gunpla top coat

For more information on using top coat without paint on plamo kits, check out the guide over at my own blog. TimmyJ January 18,pm. Michael January 18,pm. ClayCannonII January 19,am. This is really helpful, especially the line marker demonstration and explanation, I am kind of between novice and advanced pulling more towards noviceand I always use the gundam brand panel marker.

Where can you get this Copico marker? Raven January 22,am. Rain January 22,pm. Where did you get the Copic Modeler Market? Angelizer June 22,am. Ryan Gunpla TV June 24,am. Swalstar July 6,am.

Well I have some questions in regard to this:. Would I have to mask off the joints when spraying these? Minh July 8,pm. Otherwise it would be a mess. LEGO1 April 4,pm. Because when you go to clean any excess ink from around area where you panel lined.

The Gunpla Top Coat Guide: Giving your Gunpla a Fantastic Finish

The ink that you will wipe away may just catch on the edge of whatever decal that you happened to place nearby. That is by sharpen a mechanical pencil tip. Will build one with this method whenever possible and post it up here! Charlie January 24,am.All official Gunpla kits are manufactured by the famous Japanese company, Bandai. This blog is a continuation of the blog series, GunplaTutorial.

Last time I talked about where to buy Gunpla kits, how to read the instruction manual, and how to remove nub marks. This blog will show you how to do all of these three things. It also has a badass visor. A visible line that is a result of two plastic parts being put together. The purpose of model-making is to make your model look as realistic as possible. You want to remove these lines so that the two plastic parts look like one continuous part.

A visible indented line or thin-and-long indented area that is purposefully on the Gunpla kit.

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When painted in with a dark color, the Gunpla kit will look more detailed and will look more like the actual Gundam itself. However for panel lines, there should be an indentation along the line when you put the two parts together in contrast to seam lines.

This is for removing seam lines. Hobby cement is like glue in that it bonds two parts together. Different cements have different bonding strengths. For general purposes, I recommend getting the Extra-Thin Cement the weaker one as it gets the job done in terms of seam line removal just as well as stronger versions, but it also damages the plastic less. Tamiya Cement is known to contain chemicals that are carcinogens.

It also has really strong fumes, so you need to use it in a relatively ventilated area, in addition to wearing a mask.

Layman's Gunpla Guide - Decals & Stickers

Alternatively, you can get Limonene Cement which smells like citrus fruits and has no unpleasant smells. Still don't huff it though! There are two main ways to panel line your kit: either using a Gundam panel line marker or something like Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color.This second post explaining how I build my models hopefully will answer the questions posed to me about painting Gundams. If you enjoy what it is you do and are satisfied with the result, how can it be wrong?

A lot of the process when it comes to painting will overlap with what I wrote in the Out of the Box post, so bear with me. Building a kit with the intention of painting calls for a little bit of a different approach than one just out of the box. You will be test building it knowing that it will be coming apart again. The previously mentioned peg-cutting method is very important here.

Another thing I tend to do is not use any stickers during the test build except for the eye sticker. I put the eye sticker on because I like to take pictures when the test build is complete, and occasionally do a review. As well, if there is a part of the frame or armor that snaps into place strongly, with the loud noise, I will often leave that part out of the test build to eliminate the risk of breaking something when it comes time to disassemble.

Relevant Point 1: Pay attention to areas where you might be making any modifications such as seam lines, etc. Before you can do any painting you need to look at…. Probably the most common modification is the removal of seam lines.

For that, all you really need is some model cement and some sand paper. If the seam line is still showing after this process you can use some putty and fill in the gaps.

Remember the more you do it the better your results should become. Click here. Perhaps there is an area of the kit you feel is too plain and needs some more details.

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Or perhaps there are gaps or areas you want to cover over. One way to do these things is to add plastic. There are all kinds of plastics you can buy from sheets to rods. Tamiya makes them, as well as a company called Evergreen.What is top coating? After assembling, painting and detailing your Gunpla model, you can use top coating to help protect it.

Top coating is a method wherein you use a clear colored paint to seal in and protect whatever surface you are applying it on, and it is actually used in car manufacturing to help give cars a glossy finish.

Therefore, you can imagine that a Gundam top coat is much more than a protective measure; when properly applied to your Gunpla, it also brings an extra aesthetic touch in either gloss, matte or even in-between.

Top coat products usually come in spray cans because they are the easiest to use, albeit more expensive than bottle-based top coat paint products. Here are some examples of top coat spray cans:. Mr Hobby is the most popular brand for top coating Gunpla. You will want to use Flat if you want a dull, chalky Gunpla top coat finish just like military tanks and planes. Spraying Flat will reduce the shininess of your model.

Example of a matte finish:. For a Gundam top coat that looks like a sports car, use gloss. Example of a gloss finish:. Sometimes top coating Gunpla requires a bit more finesse, with both types of finish included in the mix.

Satin is the best of both worlds, a terrific combination of matte and gloss. Of course, since Gunpla top coat preferences are as diverse as Gunpla models themselves, the type of top coat that you ultimately decide to use is entirely up to you.

Example of satin finish:. Also available are industrial paint can brands like Bosny, Lotus and RJ London, which provide clear coating. They are cheaper compared to the Mr.

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Hobby line and actually have more volume, hence the bigger cans. The disadvantage of using industrial paint cans is that, due to their larger spray nozzles, the paint particles will be larger; you will therefore have to adjust the spray distance to your Gunpla model. Later we will talk about how to spray paint onto your Gunpla model. CAUTION : If you choose to use industrial spray cans for top coating Gunpla, please be careful: Spraying too much onto your Gunpla model can make the plastic material brittle, possibly breaking it in the future.

This is important especially in older models. Also, applying top coat following a paint job helps to prevent accidental smudging or erasure of panel lining.

Because panel lining is best done on a smooth glossy finish! When applying decals, especially water slide decals, keep in mind that they adhere better to a smooth glossy finish, just like panel lining. Finally, a good Gundam top coat can prevent your model from looking like an ordinary plastic toy; it not only makes it look more realistic, but quite simply, much cooler! Top coating Gunpla is basically a nine-step process.

First, prepare to spray your Gunpla model.What is top coating? After assembling, painting and detailing your Gunpla model, you can use top coating to help protect it. Top coating is a method wherein you use a clear colored paint to seal in and protect whatever surface you are applying it on, and it is actually used in car manufacturing to help give cars a glossy finish.

Therefore, you can imagine that a Gundam top coat is much more than a protective measure; when properly applied to your Gunpla, it also brings an extra aesthetic touch in either gloss, matte or even in-between. Top coat products usually come in spray cans because they are the easiest to use, albeit more expensive than bottle-based top coat paint products.

Here are some examples of top coat spray cans:. Mr Hobby is the most popular brand for top coating Gunpla. You will want to use Flat if you want a dull, chalky Gunpla top coat finish just like military tanks and planes. Spraying Flat will reduce the shininess of your model. Example of a matte finish:.

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For a Gundam top coat that looks like a sports car, use gloss. Example of a gloss finish:. Sometimes top coating Gunpla requires a bit more finesse, with both types of finish included in the mix.

Satin is the best of both worlds, a terrific combination of matte and gloss. Of course, since Gunpla top coat preferences are as diverse as Gunpla models themselves, the type of top coat that you ultimately decide to use is entirely up to you. Example of satin finish:. Also available are industrial paint can brands like Bosny, Lotus and RJ London, which provide clear coating.

They are cheaper compared to the Mr. Hobby line and actually have more volume, hence the bigger cans. The disadvantage of using industrial paint cans is that, due to their larger spray nozzles, the paint particles will be larger; you will therefore have to adjust the spray distance to your Gunpla model.

Later we will talk about how to spray paint onto your Gunpla model. CAUTION : If you choose to use industrial spray cans for top coating Gunpla, please be careful: Spraying too much onto your Gunpla model can make the plastic material brittle, possibly breaking it in the future.

This is important especially in older models. Also, applying top coat following a paint job helps to prevent accidental smudging or erasure of panel lining. Because panel lining is best done on a smooth glossy finish! When applying decals, especially water slide decals, keep in mind that they adhere better to a smooth glossy finish, just like panel lining. Finally, a good Gundam top coat can prevent your model from looking like an ordinary plastic toy; it not only makes it look more realistic, but quite simply, much cooler!

Top coating Gunpla is basically a nine-step process. First, prepare to spray your Gunpla model.